The name is something of a fake -- XO sauce. The Asian condiment contains no cognac, which is what the XO ("extra old") term famously applies to. Nor is it a sauce in the traditional, smooth sense but more of a chunky relish.
This recipe nicely reminds us not to focus on what's underneath the sauce when pairing with wine, but to check out the sauce itself. Too often we attend to the base when searching for an appropriate wine.
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